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BLOG: Taganga/Tayrona Park
Santa
Marta/ Taganga/ Tayrona Park
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I think we left off somewhere around the 27th, still in
Cartagena. On the 28th we took a īdirect 4-hrī bus to
Santa
Marta that took 7 hours
and a change in Barranquilla. Then a taxi to Taganga, which
is a small fishing town with nice surrounding beaches, good,
if cold, diving and developing tourism. (And some mas guapo
men). We arrived too late that day to go to the finca we
were meant to be staying so we only arrived there the next
day. Itīs practically on the edge of Tayrona National Park,
surrounded by absolutely stunning countryside (quite
jungly).We got there in time to walk (plus guide) to where a
river meets the sea-canīt really describe how beautiful it
was Iīm afraid, but very few ppl except fishermen there,
which made it nicer than the actual park which was
disappointingly touristy.
Spent 2 nights on the finca-couldnīt have spent any more
because v isolated and run by sweet but dotty old French
lady who thought that sharing an omelet was a perfectly
substantial dinner...2nd day we went to Quebrada Valencia
which is a series of waterfalls down a rock face that
collects in little pools you cna swim in. Just gorgeous.
Back to Taganga, to get put in a sweltering BOX of a room,
despite having booked months in advance...grr...but
thankfully 2 nice young Colombian brothers swapped
Quick note from Helen. After initial reservations now love
Colombia and all the
adventures we have been having. It is an amazing country,
very diverse with much to see and do. No sign of FARC yet;
most life threatening experience is the driving here which
is truly terrifying! Favourite bits for me have been the
museums in Bogota (esp the gold museum and the Impressionist
collection in the Botero museum), Cartagena - truly
beautiful colonial city with old buildings with balconies
full of brightly coloured flowers + fab shops, snorkeling in
the Carribean and some very fast riding in deepest
Colombia (San Agustin). The
people are lovely, very kind and helpful and we are now used
to seeing guns on anything in a uniform of which there are
many both in the cities and on the roads. Bus journeys are
often interrupted by searches by the army or narcotics
police. Looking forward to jungle next and then home to all
the winter things we miss like toasted teacakes and roast
beef! I feel so sorry for Beth having to go on to Brazil...
OK..sorry, Bethīs back again. Itīs a good thing Mum doesnīt
speak too much Spanish or Iīd never get a chance to chat
anyone up! So..oh yeah, the nice Colombian guys who we ended
up having dinner with at the hostel on the night of New Yrīs
Eve, before heading to the only club in town which served
truly the worst mojitos I have ever tasted and played the
weirdest combination of music that made it almost impossible
to dance without looking a bit of an idiot (alright, I
probably do anyway when I dance, but the point was I hadnīt
been able to force down enough of my mojito to stop caring).
Still, bed at 3am which is respectable enough.
Tagangaīs one of those places that grows on you. We spent
the next few days either on a beach, renting snorkeling
gear; I spent 2 more days diving (actually brought tears to
my eyes it was so amazing!)-saw dolphins right next to the
boat the first day, as well as the most ENORMOUS monstrous
moray eel (didnīt know it was possible to paddle backwards
so fast!), the most beautiful Caribbean fish (angelfish,
trumpet fish, seahorses etc. etc.). Even saw a turtle on my
2nd day which is incredibly rare!!!!! Still makes my heart
beat faster jsut thinking about it. Itīs hard to describe
how it feels-such a privilege to briefly become part of this
world which I had no idea actually existed just like
aquariums, but real.
Went to Tayrona one day, as mentioned. Found the beaches v
pretty (jungle meets sea with amazing rock formations) but
full of people, so decided to go for a walk. 4 hrs later,
after much rock scrambling and passing through the remains
of an ancient Indian settlement, we arrive dusty, hot and
thirsty at the road and flag down a bus just as the heavens
open. So about 5.5 hrs walking in total I guess, and not
really expected but definitely worth it. (for anyone who
goes to Tayrona, head to El Cabo beach, then from there to
Pueblito Chairamo, go out the other side and you come out at
Calabazo).
Met some really nice guys in Taganga, a few Brits, some
lovely Germans who we shared quite a few drinks, pizzas, and
laughs with, the people I was diving with and took me out
for the night...salud and feliz aņo to all of them.
But that made it hard to leave Tayrona. Or perhaps it was
the thought of the 2 flights and 4 hrs by bus to San
Agustin, another little town in stunning green lush
countryside which attracts tourism for itīs many sites where
theyīve found tombs and statues made by a mysterious Indian
civilisation, all built c.4700 BC. Some of which we explored
by horseback, and some by foot. Absolutely fascinating for
me, and Mum was just happy to be on a horse again. And I got
some rafting in this morning to keep me happy :)
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